Days 7 through 9: Nara - Kobe - Himeji - Okayama, in a flash
Arrived in Nara in the late afternoon and headed straight for the tourist information centre in search of nearer, cheaper accomodation than the one I'd booked. Mainly because I didn't feel up to walking up a steep hill with luggage. Saved by a newish guesthouse run by a young Japanese woman, quite likely overseas educated. Did not know that torture in another form awaited (prob'ly sniggering and rubbing its hands in glee).
The first level of the place is fronted by a cafe of sorts where (mostly male) westerners lounge, with dorms on the second level. It was a bit like a large attic with neither windows nor air-conditioning, a veritable oven. Cosy in winter, I reckon, but this toasty feeling just isn't enjoyable in summer. I'd rather bake outside where it at least isn't stuffy. What luck, then, that various Nara attractions are lighted up in the night-time. I go a-walking.
This turned out not to be the favoured activity among visitors to Nara, and I find myself wandering lonely roads and dark temple grounds. Thus discouraged, I head back after walking just five of the listed sights.
The following morning, I discover Nara's main attraction - deer, herds of tame spotted Ibaraki deer! These frolick in Nara-koen (park), which apparently covers a large area encompassing many of Nara's famous sites, including Japan's second tallest five-storey pagoda in Kofu-ji; the largest wooden building in the world, Todai-ji (the main hall), which in turn houses one of Japan's largest daibutsu (buddha); and one of the country's top three shrines, Kasuga Taisha. Deer everywhere - one tries to eat a random piece of paper sticking out of my bag; another makes a stab at me with velvety antlers. Ah, those doe eyes can really make a fool of you!
I may be plan-less, but the seaside was still wholly unexpected. It's pleasantly comforting to be standing knee-deep in the west Kobe waves, though. I'm spending the night near the sea and within walking and viewing distance of the world's longest suspension bridge - Akashi Kaikyo. A magnificent structure that's also prettily lighted up at night. Wish I could say I crossed it but the JR line doesn't so I didn't. And you thought a Japan Rail Pass didn't have limitations.
Thought I'd ride a cable car to see the night-time cityscape at Shin-Kobe, but it was closed (at what time that happened is anyone's guess). Running up to the ticketing station didn't help. Maybe I shouldn't've queued for the bento. Good meal, though. Later unwittingly came upon a surprisingly lively Shin-Kobe night scene and made a quick retreat.
Next, Himeji. Appears to be a city built around its castle. Technically, it is, this being how it was back in the samurai days - it's just less apparent in other cities. No surprise, in any case, with Himeji-jo being Japan's ichi-ban castle. Deservedly so too, as it is extremely well-preserved and maintained. Unlike Osaka-jo, the interior of the castle comes complete with original (and replaced) fittings, including creaky wooden floorboards on all seven levels, weapons racks, defence platforms, steeeeeeep stairs (more like ladders) and assorted decorative fittings and furnishings. Very impressive, and please, remove your shoes.
Himeji's Shosha-zan is apparently "a popular sightseeing spot" where some scenes of The Last Samurai was filmed, but turned out to be a rather quiet hill that saw more hikers than tourists. The tourists might all be hiding in Shashazan Engyoji (temple) (where the movie set was, specifically), but I decide I didn't want to meet them.
For the night, I'd made a booking with a place in Oboke, Shikoku. However, it turned out that checking-in after 6 pm is a big no-no as the manager/owner had other plans. Having no impression of being informed of this when I made the booking, I was indignant, but to no avail. Was thusly forced to spend the night in Okayama (from where the JR line will make the crossing into Shikoku), in a ryokan near the station, with a room and television all to myself, that was out of the usual budget. Unhappy with the state of affairs, I made the most of the free internet available at the lobby to rant about the unfairness of it all to anyone who would listen.
