09 July 2012

Forget Poo-get

When you do a search of things to do in Phuket, every single result is about going to the beach or going out on a boat. But there's so much more to Phuket than that ...

Well, at least, that's what I had hoped to write.

Alas, it really is a place all about the sun, sand, sea, and nothing much else. And I'll admit its coastline shines like the pearl it's touted to be - and that's why it continues to attract Western tourists, sun worshippers, by the droves. Single-handedly, they have made Phuket the richest province in Thailand - it managed to recover quickly, even after that massive hit it took in the 2004 Asian tsunami.

It's actually not completely true that there isn't anything else to see in Phuket. It's just that it's a difficult place for budget travellers who want to see more than the sea. This appears to be the unfortunate side-effect of droves of tourists descending on a poor province and making it rich. Now they just can't get enough. The famous Patong beachfront is jam-packed with hotels, pubs, cafes, souvenir stalls, beach chair touts, and of course, you can't escape the loud music.

Did I mention it's all about the beach? From Phuket town, you can easily hop on a songthaew to any of the main beaches. It's about 30B (S$1.50) to the nearest. But if you want to go Khaosok National Park? Sorry. How about Laem Phromthep, the southernmost point of the island popular among even locals for sunsets? Nope, sorry. Then, what about Wat Chalong, the island's most prominent temple? ... No, not there either.

Your options?

Self-drive (motorcycle or car). This is said to be the most economical and convenient. Fine, if you like driving. I don't know anyone who actually enjoys driving more than being driven. So alternatively, hire a car and driver. This'll cost you B2,000 a day, excluding petrol. Acceptable if you've got a party of 3 or 4 to split the cost.

Next, metered taxi. These are like an endangered species. I wasn't lucky enough to catch a glimpse of one.

Then, there's the famous tuk-tuk. The one we encountered refused to take us to even Wat Chalong (about 10km from town?). Instead, it pretty much just drove us around town (walkable) to the various souvenir outlets where they'll be rewarded with gas vouchers. And when they have covered all the stops giving out vouchers, they will insist on sending you back to the hotel. The End.

Another important part of the trip - getting to and from the airport. The philosophy here seems to be, they want to welcome you, but once your time is up, you're on your own.

From the airport, it's great. There's the slow public bus once every hour. There's the shared minivan costing 100B, moves when all 10 seats are filled. Then, there're metered taxis (supposedly) from 450B to town and other more luxurious options.

To the airport? There's the slow bus, which leaves only from the town bus station, but timings aren't too reliable. You can telephone for a metered taxi, subject to availability. Next up, and the safest option, a private car transfer at 500B - that's the same price as taking a cab from Jurong to Changi. Not sure what justifies this price in Thailand.

The bottom line? Phuket won't be easy on your pocket. If you really want to go, my tip - avoid the so-called Botanical Gardens. It pales in comparison to ours (which is mostly free) and charges 500B per entry. Yes, S$25. We spent about an hour in there and walked away with one of their mini visitor brollies (that's to say we didn't return it). Now it's known as the S$75 umbrella.

Speaking of which, under normal circumstances, I might not have chosen to go to Phuket. But air fares were still low in June, prob'ly because it's supposed to be the rainy season. Anticipating this, I even packed a big green brolly. Well, at least it came in useful under the unrelenting sun.