Guangzhou the city is plagued by a fine drizzle and mist for the duration of my stay. Just before I was due in the city, the mecury plummets from the 20s to the region's winter-like lows of under 15. I'd packed the grand total of one cardigan.
The drizzle seems to escalate into a brief shower every few days, but for the most part, it's so fine no one'd bother taking out their umbrella if it were to happen back home. But here, people whip out their umbrellas readily. The Guangzhou metro even has largish umbrellas for loan.
I forged ahead with my plan to see the various sights the Cantonese-speaking province had to offer. On my first stop, Zhaoqing 肇庆, I had an under-the-weather Itsuo in tow. We made it to the city's old walls and a mountain park 鼎湖山 just outside the city, within which there were a loverly waterfall, various lakes and a centuries-old temple built on the hillside.
Unfortunately sight-seeing doesn't amuse my companion, who readily took up my suggestion that he move on to his next destination further north the following day. Venturing out later that night, we chanced upon an excellent late night meal of grilled oysters and claypot oyster porridge for a mere S$11.
Thusly, I headed for Qingyuan 清远 the following day amid a moderate fog. This escalated into a moderate shower halfway to the city. That stopped sometime in the afternoon, even letting some sunshine sneak through before more grumpy clouds rolled in. Thus encouraged, I larked around for another day in hopes of visiting a nearby mountain, only to have them dashed.
Then, I had a brilliant idea. Or so I thought.
Since there's no sight-seeing or hiking to be had, I'll just spend my time riding buses from one city to another. What better way of seeing the province than by sitting in the comfort (and relative warmth) of a bus?
There was no bus to my next desired destination of Chaozhou 潮州, so I got on a bus to Shaoguan 韶关 in the north of the province instead. This city had previously already been struck off, as I'd planned it as a white-water rafting destination. Such an activity just wasn't that enticing in coat-wearing conditions. Not wanting to spend another night in another dodgy guest house 招待所, I thought I'd be able catch an overnight bus to Chaozhou from here. Shaoguan turns out to be a rather pleasant city with a wide river coursing through its centre, on which people were doing what looked like kayaking.
As big and pleasant city as it was, its bus offerings to the east of the province was paltry at best. Only one bus to Chaozhou a day, leaving at midday and arriving at about 10am the following day. I'd just missed it, of course. And that it'll take almost 24 hours is mind-boggling, since it should technically be an under 10-hour journey. Thus defeated, I hopped on a bus back to Guangzhou in hopes that there'd be an overnight bus there.
But of course there wasn't.
This is how I am resigned to spending the rest of my time in Guangzhou. On the bright side, there're things to do despite the miserable weather. I now have some new shoes (in addition to those I'd already pre-ordered online) and my stomach's swimming with a dozen oysters (steamed, this time) I purchased for a mere S$6.
It's more of a civilised city than those I'm used to in the north, smoke-wise. The bus driver on the way to Guangzhou told off a passenger for smoking inside the bus. "Who's been smoking in the bus, it's so smelly! Is this the first time you're venturing out on a bus? What if I get dizzy driving from the smoke?" Most won't smoke inside a restaurant too. Also, they've got dessert stalls everywhere selling such delights as steamed milk custard 双皮奶 and sesame paste 芝麻糊.
Hmm, it's getting chilly again. Time for more food.
